Upon seating, Anona took great and prolix pains to brag - ANONA Paris - Buy Reservations
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🤢 2/5 - Upon seating, Anona took great and prolix pains to brag
By 👻 @Brski B., 10/27/2019 3:00 am
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Upon seating, Anona took great and prolix pains to brag about how eco-friendly it was, from sourcing the food to the design of the restaurant. The "menu découverte" was a "discovery (tasting) menu" of 5 courses. The service was excellent to start, but it started to cross the line into intrusiveness. The servers were on and around you like hungry ravens. They changed out napkins constantly - how is that green? They kept giving you bread without asking if you wanted any. This is green? What appeared to be the head server (he was the only person wearing a black suit) was the restaurant's Rasputin. Rasputin because of his long beard and his damning demeanor with the underlings around him. He was also the prolix-one and likely a would-be sommelier (he told us they were very proud of the wine pairings). The wines would be good, but with nothing interesting or inspired about their pairings with the food. The food. Well, the wine pours were larger than the food servings. This is fine, of course; one needs appropriate plate sizes for a tasting menu. But some of the portions were so small that I joked that they were "quantum." Also, most of the dishes came in bowls, which were too large and too deep considering how small and delicate the food was in proportion. Scooping food out was more trouble than it should have been. And how are unnecessarily large plates/bowls green? Anyway, the 1st dish was gravlax with pickled fennel and fennel foam. This tasted good, but it was (surprise) really just a bite - and who uses foam in 2019? The next dish was tomato stuffed with tomato topped with thin bread crisps. This was also good, also small, tasting like a very good tomato sauce. The 3rd dish, a raw trimming of Wagyu with an emulsion of corn, baby corn, corn kernels, popcorn, and a thin corn crisp. There was a hint of heat in the drop of green-herby mince on top of the Wagyu. Again, pretty good, very small, and far too skimpy on the Wagyu. The main course was pigeon with butternut squash squares and more crisps sitting on a puree drizzled with a demi-glace glaze. While the breast meat was a perfect cook, the thin skin was so tough that my dull knife could barely saw through it. Most likely a technical error - a sous vide without a proper finishing roast. The meatless wing it was served with was inedible. The 5th dish, a dessert, was an apple whipped cream with a milky apple-ginger sauce, apple batons, and more thin crisps. This was fine. Perhaps the restaurant became aware of my dissatisfaction, particularly with the surlier Rasputin, because we received another dessert - a confection with cocoa dust, chocolate toffee pieces, and flat-round cookies. Fine. In toto, not a satisfying experience, largely spoiled by Rasputin (notably silent-scolding other servers for no discernible reason); but the food was also flawed. I don't like to make predictions, but I don't see this place thriving for long unless some serious changes are made.
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