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🙂 4/5 - Like a raucous gator hunter in a tux
By 👻 @Jon L, 03/21/2024 3:00 am
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A local institution, Commander's Palace is ground zero for old school N'awlins fine dining. The titular estate in which the restaurant resides is homey and gorgeous; the interior sprawls up several staircases and into many chandelier'd rooms. It has more than a hint of the haunted house vibe--the dress code is there to protect your embarrassment. Jeans would seem profoundly out of place. Service is swift, jovial, and accommodating. Everyone on the staff seems genuinely invested in your good time. Outside of the building the restaurant's name is spelled out in bulbs on a haint blue board. This kitschy signage is a fitting advertisement for the food, which is loud and friendly first, functional and gustatory second. Prudhomme and Lagasse are long gone, but Commander's Palace is dedicated to delivering their classics with panache. The menu is like a Greatest Hits compilation with a few new tracks thrown in for good measure--some of which, as with THE BEST OF STING, are much better than the average of the previously recorded material. (I happen to like "When We Dance" very much.) Turtle soup is a totally unnecessary dish, and it isn't exactly life-changingly delicious either, but it exists here as an exotic token of a bygone era. The prevalence of such tokens at CP is what qualifies it as a tourist experience more than a restaurant. This is not a knock, and this is not to suggest that the food isn't excellent. (My jerk-seasoned pork chop was an exquisite umami garden, particularly when washed down with my glass of top shelf Vacqueyras.) But the atmosphere and the majority of the dishes have a strange ersatz quality--I felt more like a child pretending to eat in a fancy restaurant than an adult actually dining in one. (Then again, maybe this was because the staff tied balloons to my table in observance of my birthday?) 'Tis, in the immortal words of Graham Chapman, a silly place. But there are times when we could all use a little more silliness.
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