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🙂 4/5 - Palatino ticks most of the boxes of an excellent restaurant
By 👻 @Will B., 04/17/2018 3:00 am
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Palatino ticks most of the boxes of an excellent restaurant -- a well-crafted menu of good food at reasonable prices -- but still left me slightly unconvinced. It serves up a solid advert for Roman food - a cuisine that's rather neglected on these shores. I agree with many of the reviews that observe it's a notch above most of the restaurants you'll find in the Eternal City: you're safe from formulaic menus and tourist trap chintz. Instead, the city's calling cards -- cacio e pepe, gutsy offal, more chicory than you might have thought possible -- are respectfully worked into a modern, elegant menu that really should excite you. There were a few stand out dishes on our visit. Both antipasti proved to be inspired. Anchovy and stracciatella on toast was lifted by the sour kiss of preserved lemon: the kind of blur of sea salt, zest and creaminess that life should be. Alongside it, we shared fritto misto of sage leaves, squash and zuccini. It was simultaneously a raucous fun, and yet also technically tight, dish: a mosaic of textures, perfectly fried and served with a playful dipping sauce of honeyed vinegar. Book-ending the meal, Palatino's cheesecake deserves special mention. Sweet enough to remind you instantly of childhood, it was cloud-light and shot through with vanilla. That said, a main course of onglet with polenta and chicory fell slightly flat. The meat, though gratifyingly rare, lacked the emphatic punch of flavour I'd expect from onglet. Alongside it, the salsa verde also felt listless. This was still a pleasant dish, but with a rough simplicity that strayed too close to homecooking. But more significantly, I think it was Palatino's decor and service that disappointed most. They've taken industrial chic too far, resulting in a space that seems cold and anonymous. That sense was compounded by inattentive service, with waiters seemingly uninterested in taking our order or letting us pay. Despite food that repeatedly snapped into song, this deflated the excitement of the experience. Competent, confident and well-priced: if Palatino were to take on human form, I'd certainly employ the chap, but would think twice before befriending them.
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