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Finally! We made it.
This was our third attempt to come here, and finally we actually managed. Between the many reviews and our excitement our expectations were sky high. As you probably know the original restaurant and it’s historic building burned down and the Schwarzwaldstube reopened in the same location but in a new building just very recently. Historic coziness was replaced with a rather Scandinavian-feeling minimalism. We ordered the Grand Degustation menu. To our surprise there was a lot of dishes that mixed Asian elements with European cuisine and both of us being a couple mixed a long the same lines, think what works for us, rarely works for food. That seemed hold to hold true here too. While every dish was delicious and the quality of the ingredients were clearly very high the experience lacked wow effects for us. We still of course had a very satisfactory meal and enjoyed ourselves very much, also because of the attentive and very friendly service. We would love to come back when the menu changes and try again.
Be the first to ReplyLacking the dazzling brilliance of our previous dinner here
The last time we dined here was in late 2019, just a couple of months before the historic bulding in which this restaurant was housed, sadly burnt down. The restaurant has only just reopened in its new permanent home, a fabulous piece of contemporary architecture that maximises the spectacular views. The interior now enjoys a double-height ceiling and has a fabulously airy and contemporary feel. Our 2019 dinner here (see separate review) was spectacular with exceptional dish after exceptional dish; in summary our dinner here in 2022 felt far more pedestrian in comparison. As is usually the case in 3* Michelin restaurants we took the longest tasting menu, which ones hopes, is usually the best expression of the kitchen's output and provides a journey to experience as many different dishes as possible. As my wife is pescatarian a couple of the meat dishes were thoughtfully and easily swapped for fish ones. By the end of the savoury courses, I too wished that I had gone with the pescatarian option. The amuse bouches were pleasant enough, but there was no flash of genius that one often hopes for in a 3* Michelin restaurant. The final amuse of a salmon tartar was nice enough, but it was just a nice salmon tartar, nothing more. Then we were into the main menu, which began with a foie gras terrine which was again nice enough, and perfectly made, but there was no "wow" there and the fruit pairings with it were very classic. As a contrast, at L'Hotel de Ville (a 3* Michelin restaurant in Crissier) the previous weekend, they took the foie gras to a much more bitter and savoury place which was more interesting than this. This was followed by a beautiful lobster dish which had perfectly cooked lobster with the most perfect texture and was paired with what is probably best described as the most complex and refined Thai style curry sauce. This was a lovely dish packed full of flavour and technique. Next up was a fish dish with a perfectly cooked piece of John Dory paired with a variety of preparations of fennel and a beurre blanc sauce split with a herb oil. This was lovely cookery with the fish perfectly cooked, and the whole dish ate very well. However, this is what I'd expect in a solid 2* restaurant, there was nothing that elevated this to that 3* Michelin level. The worst course by far was a morel and pork dish. There was a big lump of pork on the plate, which was perfectly cooked and just pink in the centre. The black truffle sauce tasted like the meat stock component was ever so slightly over reduced, and the accompanying morels didn't have much morel flavour and just tasted a bit salty. The best thing on the plate was a number of preparations of peas which had amazing flavour and brought freshness to the palate. As with the previous dish, this was 2* Michelin level cooking, but there was nothing exciting about it, in fact it was a pretty boring dish. My wife on the other hand enjoyed some far more exciting fish dishes which were firmly in the 3* category; it is such a shame that the kitchen didn't create more interesting meat based dishes. The meat courses felt like lazy cooking; dishes which the chef had not spent much time developing. One does not expect this lack of attention to detail in a 3* Michelin restaurant. Fortunately the dessert took a turn for the better, although for me the plating was too simple and didn't match the amazing flavours of the dishes. The most impressive dessert was a chocolate sorbet accompanied with a super light liqueur mousse and cherries such that it had the classic flavours of the black forest gateau but in a completely different format. My description does not do justice to how good this dish was. A mille-feuille of gariguette strawberries was also very impressive, but again could have been plated to better effect. The wine list here is spectacular and full of hard to find gems so is a real treat and the wine service itself deserves a special mention as the servers were continually checking on the temperature of the white wine and putting in back on the ice as appropriate. Top marks for attention to detail here. I would happily have shared my thoughts at the time, but no manager stopped to ask how the meal had been. Perhaps our expectations were set too high given how wonderful our last meal here was. This one just doesn't compare at any level and felt dull by comparison. Maybe we caught the kitchen on an off day, but it was incredibly disappointing to experience this dinner, albeit my wife's food was more 3* Michelin than mine. We will nevertheless try it again and hopefully the kitchen will be on better form.
Be the first to ReplyIconic - no other word
The Schwarzwaldstube is among the iconic restaurants of Germany and indeed Europe - no other place in D has held 3 stars for as long. The current temporary venue is pretty comfortable but we await the completion of the rebuilt restaurant (the old one burned down in Jan. 2020). The meal we had there was outstanding from the amuse bouches to the mignardises - the langoustine and lobster as starters were truly world class. My main of sea bass was very good but not at the same level as the langoustine or the lobster. We chose a la carte, and the courses/portions were surprisingly generous. We thus only ordered only 2 portions of the soufflé (for 3 persons) - that was excellent as well and at the same level as a soufflé at the Hotel de Ville as few years ago.. Service was most pleasant and unrushed, the waitress even asking for the score of the Euro 2020 which was played that evening. Stéphane Gass is a world class sommelier, and we enjoyed the 2008 Josmeyer Riesling he recommended over another Riesling from F.P. Keller....... we will mot certainly return, and sooner rather than later
Be the first to ReplyOne of the Five Best Restaurants in Europe
We took two trains and a bus from Stuttgart and spent a night at Traube Tonbach in October 2018 just to eat at Schwarzwaldstube. It was one of the best decisions we’ve ever made.
Chef Michel is a genius and deserves high praise. While no single dish sticks out like the Lasagana at Osteria Francescana or the Caviar Eggs Benedict at Eleven Madison Park, every detail of every preparation was perfect. No needless attempts at being overly inventive - just supreme quality ingredients prepared in perfect combinations in accordance with the same local tradition that was respected by Chef Wohlfarht.
The location in the Black Forest is magical. The cheese cart is awesome. Service is extremely honest and professional. Chef walked around to greet each table towards the end of the evening - as many high-profile chefs do - but he did so in a very genuine, attentive way. Difficult to describe, but the humility of the restaurant despite its legendary status is striking.
We were fortunate to make the pilgrimage here before the fire. What a special place. We will never forget that meal.