Celebration lunch - The Greenhouse Dublin 2 - Buy Reservations
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😍 5/5 - Celebration lunch
By 👻 @David P, 03/08/2020 4:00 am
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Chum's imminent birthday was the excuse for a celebratory lunch at the now-two-starred Greenhouse. Has it changed since the award of a second star? Hardly, but then it always was good. What is so spectacular about it? At first glance, nothing: no flashy decor, no music, no extravagant lighting — just grey curtains, blue upholstery, frosted glass with "the Greenhouse" etched on it, stylish staff, soberly suited, or for women (mostly) black dresses; the spectacular thing, of course, is — rightly — the food. On the whole, I think long menus are a mistake; the Greenhouse lunch menu is positively succinct: 2 starters (foie gras or scallops), 2 mains (pigeon or cod), 2 desserts, with the option of cheese as well as, or instead of dessert. Portion sizes are such you could safely envisage eating here every day, but I think the potential variations of the menu would soon be exhausted. On the other hand, there is probably a limit to the number of different dishes a single star chef can contend with (there is a tasting option, though). Dishes can be paired with wines (or in one case, saké), an option well worth considering. We both had hand dived scallops, served in a foam on the fattest dish ever, which I loved and chum felt too acidic; he went on to cod, and I pigeon. Mine came with a chicken liver on the side, which was nice, but didn’t seem to have much to do with the delicious pigeon and its rich sauce. Chum and I shared a little pan of pommes mousselines. We shared a single extra of cheese — any 5 of about 8 presented on a tray, then cut elsewhere and returned in elegant slivers, accompanied with salad, quince jelly, bread and craquelins. Il was predictable chum would opt for chocolate dessert (Amedi chocolate, orange, praline, rosemary, coffee sorbet), and perhaps also that I would have the Citrus wakame, frozen meringue, which I took with a huge slug of lemon saké. Lunch for two came to €270 — a good investment for a celebration.
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