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🙂 4/5 - I really want to love this restaurant, especially after
By 👻 @Patrick W., 05/02/2022 3:00 am
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I really want to love this restaurant, especially after seeing chef Yoshida's passion and determination to serve sushi for international audiences and hearing his story behind his relocation to NYC. However, being the most expensive sushi (and meals) I had had at $515 net, I expected nothing less than the best sushi in my life, and unfortunately it didn't deliver, by quite a large margin. There were things that I was impressed and a few things that let me down. Let me elaborate:Things that impressed me: the technique and the texture - in my opinion, chef Yoshida's technique is number one. His nigiri was pressed into perfection. The amount of pressure he put onto the rice, making it firm to the touch, but still melt once it touches your tongue. The balance of topping and rice is impeccable. You might have had this experience where some chef did not get the amount of shari correctly, and you ended up chewing fish at the end of the piece while the rice already disappeared. Here, the rice and the fish were gone at the exact same time. And he managed to do this every single piece. This is truly a master at work.Another point that really impressed me is the texture. Every piece is on point. The ankimo is cooked to perfection and melted in your mouth like a piece of Foie Gras. And I have never had a fried kinmedai as good as I had here.However, here comes some minor disappointments. The fish, for some reason, did not quite show its flavor that day. The ebi was not quite as sweet as other places. The kohada, although was pickled really well, didn't taste very umami. The grilled saba, which was supposed to be the highlight of the night, did not have that lovely fattiness like when I had it at sushi Nakamura in Tokyo or Sushi Yoshizumi in San Meteo. The bafun uni was only average, although that's more about the luck of the draw rather than the skill of the chef.Here comes the major disappointment: appetizer. To summarize, I think chef Yoshida tried to make appetizers that gear towards American audiences. I appreciate the effort, but the flavor combination just did not work well, and most of the time was more of a distraction from the ingredient itself. For instance, the fried kinmedai that was cooked to perfection, was drenched in a ginger scallion sweet soy sauce 'Chinese style'. I would be more satisfied if it was served only with a pinch of salt, grated wasabi or daikon, and a wedge of sudachi, which will certainly highlight the excellent cooking of the fish. The hotaru ika was smoked with some kind of wood (apple I believe) that did not go quite well with the ika, and furthermore it was seasoned heavily with white miso dressing which completely hid the flavor of the squid itself. I'd be completely satisfy if this was grilled lightly on binchotan charcoal with salt and served to me on a skewer. The worst dish of the night is certainly the salmon, which is covered in onion cream which taste like salad cream. It was sad that I didn't taste any salmon in that dish. I didn't want to end this review in a bad note, so let me say that this is overall still an excellent meal. But if I take the price and the hype around it into account, I have to say it was quite a let down.
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